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#fda#sunscreens#sunscreen#ingredients#more#market#free#better#zinc#oxide

Discussion (60 Comments)Read Original on HackerNews

jamesbelchamberabout 1 hour ago
> Not at all. In fact, American sunscreens may be less safe.

Are they less safe, or _may_ they be less safe? The distinction is important, and I'm wary of overexcited editors "upgrading" titles for clicks.

(This is a comment on the veracity of the title claim only - I'm British, I have no skin in this game)

grey-area23 minutes ago
Britain conforms with EU regulations on sunscreen, as with almost everything else.
layer8about 1 hour ago
> I have no skin in this game

You literally have if you use sunscreen. ;)

bethekidyouwantabout 1 hour ago
He just said he’s British
ItsYan16 minutes ago
It's day light, not sun light. You can easily burn on a cloudy day.
electronsoupabout 1 hour ago
They didn't say they had never traveled south though
QGQBGdeZREunxLeabout 2 hours ago
Didn't the FDA clear new ingredients this week? https://www.nytimes.com/2026/06/09/well/fda-sunscreen-bemotr...
hinata08about 2 hours ago
OP's article is from 2024, according to the date on it
lazideabout 2 hours ago
Does that make them safer?
RC_ITRabout 2 hours ago
I think a lot of us HN-types are people who like to post riddles like this instead of news about what actually happened.
sholladay34 minutes ago
If sunscreen is supposed to provide specific health benefits, namely to reduce cancer risk, then it is a drug, not a cosmetic. Regulations should ensure it provides the intended effect without undue harm. Cosmetics are given more leeway because they are, in principle, neutral from a medical perspective. Why would you want to treat a cancer related product like that? Saving upfront time and money, at the risk of having to spend a lot more time and money later in healthcare, is not a good reason. If anything, we might head the opposite direction. Some people think we should start regulating dietary supplements as drugs rather than food.
guhidalg6 minutes ago
FDA does regulate cosmetics components, and FTC regulates what claims they can make. It’s hard to make a binary decision that one thing is a drug and something else isn’t. You can appreciate there is a spectrum of side effects with moisturizer and sunblock on one end, supplements in the middle, and chemotherapy drugs on the other end.

Personally, I think that Americans simply don’t treat skin cancer as seriously as they should, and so the market has not provided more choices.

stymaarabout 1 hour ago
I've no opinion whatsoever on the topic, but why can't economists refrain from writing opinion pieces in newspaper about topics they have no qualification on?

I'm sure there's enough dermatologists and pharmaceutical engineers to give their informed opinion on such a topic, instead of having economists speaking as everythingologists on every damn subject…

(I know why they do that, the author is merely a polical activist, but I wish editors would just close the door to such pieces).

culiabout 1 hour ago
Frankly, the field of dermatology is so captured by corporations that my confidence is hardly raised when I see a degree in that field.

Is there a term for regulatory capture but for academia? Like "academic capture"?

culi43 minutes ago
I'd say dermatology, nutrition/dietetics, and phytopathology are 3 of the worst fields in this regard. I don't think we're fully over the sugar lobby's stranglehold on relevant science and I think the glyphosate lobby's hold is even stronger than that was. How many times are we gonna go through these crises and not reform the way we do and fund science?
tristor12 minutes ago
This article never actually says which chemicals are being used in these sunscreens that are supposedly better/safer, but basically there are only two groups of effective active ingredients for sunscreen: zinc or titanium oxide (minerals) or benzene/petroleum derivatives. The problem with the latter is they absorb through the skin and are carcinogenic, although the research shows they're better than mineral-based sunscreen at blocking UV across a wider spectrum and therefore the offset in skin cancer rate is more than the cancer risk from absorption. Meanwhile good old zinc oxide has basically no downsides except that it doesn't look pretty and you have to reapply it often if you're swimming or sweating, and if you reapply often enough it's nearly as effective as benzene-based sunscreens.

The "better" EU sunscreens and also those in Korean/Japanese products, in my experience are using benzene derived chemicals. I'll stick to zinc oxide, thanks.

JumpCrisscross5 minutes ago
> good old zinc oxide has basically no downsides except that it doesn't look pretty

Tinted sunscreens solve this problem.

horizion20258 minutes ago
Wrong there are plenty of other ingredients. In fact one of those ingredients that is permitted in EU and not US is ecamsule. It is quite nice, it absorbs the UV photons by switching confirmation (different isomere) rather than being oxidised into ROS/free radicals as many other ingredients do.
horizion20257 minutes ago
Btw titanium dioxide is now a suspected carcinogenic. It is illegal in food in the EU now.
tristor3 minutes ago
Yes, titanium and aluminum were commonly used in skincare products like sunscreen and deodorant and even in toothpaste (and still are in the US), but should be avoided. That's part of why I use zinc oxide and not titanium oxide. Zinc oxide is not a carcinogen.
dynmabout 1 hour ago
The FDA did (3 days ago!) finally approve a new ingredient: https://www.fda.gov/news-events/press-announcements/fda-expa...

My personal hot take is that we should all be using zinc (or titanium) oxide sunscreen which AFAICT maxes out both effectiveness and chemical safety. (And is the best for the fish?) Interestingly, these are the only ingredients that the FDA currently deems both safe and effective.

horizion20256 minutes ago
Titanium dioxide is now an IARC 2B suspected carcinogen.
jerlamabout 1 hour ago
Sunscreens that use zinc/titanium dioxide as active ingredients are often so unpleasant to use that people don't apply enough of them or refuse to use them. The "nicer" sunscreens that use these ingredients often sneak in SPF boosters which are actually derivatives of other chemical sunscreens but are treated differently on the ingredients label, pretty much cheating the system.

SPF boosters: https://labmuffin.com/100-mineral-sunscreens-using-unregulat...

The coral-safe sunscreen claims don't have a lot of evidence behind them:

https://labmuffin.com/is-your-sunscreen-killing-coral-the-sc...

Semaphorabout 1 hour ago
My wife is black and has sensitive skin. She once tried zinc oxide sunscreen. If one wants to be protected from the sun while cosplaying as purple monster, it's a great choice.
retired36 minutes ago
From what I read in the article, American sunscreen has more stringent regulation because it is qualified as drugs, which has higher standards, thus making American sunscreen safer (but less efficient).
Steltek14 minutes ago
Yeah, the article is contradiction with itself. US has higher standards, restricting what can be sold but then also states, "In fact, many U.S. sunscreens would fail European standards for UVA protection."

So which is it?

alistairSHabout 2 hours ago
This has been true for a while. Sadly.
wahnfriedenabout 2 hours ago
Japanese ones are also much better. I like Anessa Milk, it also doesn't stain as bad as some others.
vrganjabout 2 hours ago
> A peer-approval system would work both ways. Europe would also take into account FDA decisions

This doesn't seem like a given at all. Just because the FDA accepts EMA approvals wouldn't mean the EMA would accept FDA ones and as a European, I wouldn't want it to.

I have a lot more trust in the EMA than the FDA.

bobthepandaabout 1 hour ago
The FDA’s big claim to fame is not approving thalidomide when European regulators did, preventing a bunch of birth defects https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thalidomide
bayarearefugee35 minutes ago
The modern FDA's big claim to fame is having the previous head of it forced out, then nearly immediately approving controversial fruit-flavored vape products at the behest of a POTUS who both owns stock in Altria/Philip Morris and receives millions in Super PAC money from the tobacco industry.

Past performance is perhaps not indicative of future results.

vrganjabout 1 hour ago
This was also an entire lifetime ago.
delusionalabout 2 hours ago
Peer approval schemes are usually implemented as trade efficiency measures. A one sided peer approval would make it easier to import, while not making it easier to export, causing a delta trade deficit.
malfistabout 1 hour ago
Why is a trade deficit something to worry about? After all, my local grocery store buys nothing from me, but we both benefit from the exchange of goods and currency.
virissimoabout 1 hour ago
Furthermore, even if the trade deficit was something to worry about, why should the food and drug safety bureaucracies be the ones to determine that kind of economic policy?
nutjob2about 1 hour ago
That how you end up with chlorinated chicken you'd never knowingly eat.

Obviously any authority that takes its job seriously makes decisions based on facts and not blind trust.

vrganjabout 1 hour ago
This isn't about trade efficiency though, it's about bypassing an inefficient bureaucracy by allowing for approval by a more efficient one as an option.

We have no intention of dropping our standards to US ones, but they are welcome to follow our lead. (Or don't! It's up to you, just don't make it our problem!)

ImPostingOnHNabout 1 hour ago
That's a problem for the country with insufficient approval schemes to deal with, especially if they're also doing more work out of spite.

For a country which has a sufficient approval scheme, they lose little by choosing not to trusting an insufficient approval scheme.

ChrisArchitectabout 2 hours ago
(2024)

More recently:

FDA Expands Sunscreen Options for the First Time in 20 Years to Add Bemotrizinol

https://www.fda.gov/news-events/press-announcements/fda-expa...

(https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=48466007)

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isoprophlexabout 2 hours ago
Can't the free market just make this problem go away?
Pragmataabout 2 hours ago
Seems like the free market does make this problem go away. This is simply one of the (few) instances where there is a freer market in the EU that in the US

>In the European Union, sunscreens are regulated as cosmetics, which means greater flexibility in approving active ingredients. In the U.S., sunscreens are regulated as drugs, which means getting new ingredients approved is an expensive and time-consuming process. Because they’re treated as cosmetics, European-made sunscreens can draw on a wider variety of ingredients that protect better and are also less oily, less chalky and last longer.

You should take this as an opportunity to reflect on the amount of lives lost as a result of the regulations in place for drugs, in both the EU and US.

If the negative effect is this obvious in sunscreen, just imagine how much more impactful removing regulation on cancer drugs would be.

hinata08about 2 hours ago
calling the EU a free market that makes problems go away to draft macro economic conclusions from sunscreens is a particularly shallow analysis

Free Market advocates already did that move after walking in Hong Kong and other Chinese cities, at times they were more qualified in partisan politics than proficient in Chinese. We had been hearing their absolute "facts" and only alternative theory for a full century afterwards

I guess it's better to quickly correct that Europe isn't a lawless free market and a huge corpus of regulations still exists, even if the specific problem to approve new sunscreens is a different process in here

regulation and economy can be discussed, but EU isn't an example of free market. Sunscreens are still heavily regulated like everything else. FDA and all their processes aren't perfect, but they do a good job overall

Pragmataabout 2 hours ago
>calling the EU a free market that makes problems go away to draft macro economic conclusions from sunscreens is a particularly shallow analysis

I didn't say it was a free market. i said it was a freer market in this particular instance, as shown by this article.

DangitBobbyabout 2 hours ago
The flipside of this is that companies put dangerous chemicals into food, cookware, etc. Not convinced things would be better on net.
ericmayabout 2 hours ago
...but then the other flip side is the government does things that result in contamination, dangerous chemicals in food, cookware, people dying, whatever.

You can't be "not convinced" that things would be better - "we" have a free market and that market produced sunscreen in the first place, without which we would have worse health outcomes. There's nothing to imagine - it happened. Things are better for us.

Pragmataabout 2 hours ago
Except you can check the differences easily.

China doesn't have the same strict regulations, and yet when we compare life expectancy the difference isn't particularly big.

Thought terminating cliches like "Better safe than sorry" simply don't stand up to scrutiny once you actually check the numbers.

No, eating brasilian beef isn't going to kill you, and stopping imports from there is going to do a whole lot more to make you poorer than it will help your health. Take a walk, that will help you a whole lot more, and won't make you poorer.

thinkthatover32 minutes ago
More likely if the FDA was properly funded these things could get reviewed more often and this wouldn't be an issue. Not updating allowed ingredients in over 20 years doesn't point towards a lack of flexibility, its debilitation.
pseidemannabout 2 hours ago
You seem to be unaware of the asymmetry of information and competence. This is why consumer protection exists.
culi41 minutes ago
What specific consumer protections are you referencing?
pseidemann13 minutes ago
The FDA's purpose is protection of the public health. Drug approval would be one specific example. The SCCS (EU) evaluating UV filter safety is another.
jliptzinabout 2 hours ago
Existed*
hinata08about 2 hours ago
If it's straightforward to approve new cosmetics, REACH, Cosmetic Products Regulation 1223/2009 updated no latter than this year in regulation 2026/78, ISO 22716 and whatnot still apply

You can find lists of ingredients banned in cosmetics in the EU, or across EVERY industry in general

Perfume manufacturers are the only ones who get away with virtually everything as they don't have to declare their ingredients (but "perfumes" are also an ingredient in a bunch of cosmetics, so here is the loophole as Europe always has loopholes)

1shoonerabout 2 hours ago
Consider the potential for economic growth in private testing services. It's called job creation!
anon7000about 2 hours ago
Oh yeah, the free market is great at burying problems so consumers remain in the dark.
abc123abc123about 2 hours ago
It already has. That is why you are reading this right now.
petreabout 2 hours ago
It could, but everybody got an orange tan afterwards.